East Mainland

visit orkney east mainland map

The Orkney Mainland is divided between Kirkwall and Scapa into two sectors, East and West Mainland. The East Mainland, contains the parishes of Holm (pronounced locally as "Ham"), St Andrews and Deerness. St Andrews itself is divided into two districts, Tankerness and Toab, whilst Holm also includes the small island of Lamb Holm (pronounced "Home").

The area stretches twelve miles east from Kirkwall to Skaill in Deerness and ten miles south from Rerwick Head in Tankerness to Rose Ness in Holm. Comparatively low lying, it is almost entirely covered with glacial deposits. Here is good, though heavy, farmland which supports many of Orkney's beef herds.

Much land reclamation took place within the last century and the higher ground was peat-covered until quite recently; even today, traces of heather can be seen on roadside edges The tranquil beauty of nature is evident all around and although you'll find few archaeological sites in the area, modern historic monuments such as the famous Churchill Causeways and the Italian Chapel assure the area is high on everyone's visiting list. You can tour the area in a circular route, with a mileage of some thirty-seven miles, and within this trail you'll find several interesting shore walks. Superb views of Orkney's North Isles can be seen from Tankerness and Deemess, and from Holm you can easy see the Scottish Mainland on a clear day. The East Mainland is an area everyone from the specialist to the downright curious will enjoy to visit.

  1. Grimsetter Airport - Now titled "Kirkwall Airport", Grimsetter serves all internal and external air services. During World War II the Navy's Barracuda torpedo bombers departed from here to fly sweeps along the Norwegian coast in 1944-45. Nearby is Wideford Farm from where Captain Fresson flew on 30th May 1934 to establish the first internal airmail service in Britain. Flights leave daily to Shetland and the Scottish mainland.

  2. Twin Lochs of Weethick - Due north, on the west side of the Tankerness peninsula, lie the twin lochs of Weethick, both brackish and both impounded by a double ayre or shingle bar-the only example of its kind in Orkney. Nousts, where boats were hauled out when not in use, are found along the northern bank of the outer lagoon-evidence of its use as a harbour, perhaps as far back as Viking times.

  3. Loch of Tankerness - Most of the farms in the vicinity of the loch were established when the sea was the main form of transport. The loch occupies a central position among fertile land and Curlews, Lapwings and Oystercatchers can be seen in this area, where they breed and feed.

  4. Rerwick Head - Remains of World War II coastal defence installations, guarding the channel between Tankerness and Shapinsay, can be seen on this headland.

  5. Mill Sands - These beaches are good places for collecting cockles and razor fish (known locally as "spoots") at very low spring tides. During spring and autumn the bay is frequented by Redshank, Turnstone and sometimes Bar-tailed Godwit; Shelduck spend the summer here, breeding in nearby rabbit-holes.

  6. Sheila Fleet Jewellery - Sheila Fleet, an Orcadian designer and producer of silver and gold jewellery, has a workshop and giftshop in Tankerness. Visitors are welcome.  t: (01856) 861203. www.sheila-fleet.co.uk

  7. Paddling in DeernessDingieshowe Beach - The road runs over a sandy isthmus which connects Deerness to the Mainland of Orkney. An old defensive structure, the broch mound, is strategically sited amongst the dunes on the south side taking its name from the Old Norse for "parliament mount".

  8. Point of Ayre - An example of Lower Eday Sandstone.

  9. The Gloup - A dramatic collapsed sea-cave separated from the sea by a land bridge about 80 yards wide. It is approximately 40 yards long and 80 feet deep. Gloup comes from the Old Norse "gluppa" -a chasm- the local name for a blow hole. The Gloup is a 200 yard walk from the car park (complete with interpretation centre and toilets) though it is unfenced and great care is required. It is possible to navigate and enter the Gloup in a small boat from the sea. Details of boat hire are available at the tourist offices.

  10. Brough of Deerness - Accessible only by a narrow and dangerous cliff track, northwards from the Gloup and almost cut off by the sea at high tide, the Brough of Deerness is the site of an early Christian Monastery of the Celtic Church. Here hermit monks lived simple lives in solitude with nature. The remains of their chapel can still be seen.  Archaeologists held an excavation on the site in summer 2008 as there is so little known about the chapel.

  11. Mull HeadMull Head Nature Reserve - An area of over 200 acres of coastal grassland, heath and sea cliff providing opportunity for walking, bird-watching and nature study. A comprehensive path network stretches from the Covenanters Memorial on the North coast to the Gloup on the west coast; circular walks of between 4 and 8 km are signposted from the Gloup Car Park. Features of interest on the reserve include the archaeological remains of a Norse settlement and church on the Brough of Deerness and sea cliffs, home to many seabirds.

  12. Copinsay - A wedge shaped island with a lighthouse perched on 300 feet high vertical cliffs facing the North Sea. The lighthouse was first lit in 1915. To the north is the small steep "Horse of Copinsay". To the west of the main island are Corn Holm, Black Holm (with its volcanic rock) and Ward Holm. This group of islands is now the James Fisher Memorial Reserve, owned by The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds. These islands are the nesting sites of some 10,000 pairs of Guillemots and Kittiwakes on their mile long stretch of cliffs. Copinsay can be reached by boat - please ask at a tourist office for details.

  13. St Ninians Church and Churchyard - The Deerness War Memorial can be found within this complex and also a unique Norse Hogg-backed gravestone.

  14. Covenanters Memorial - A slender monument erected in 1888 marking the area where about two hundred Covenanters, made prisoner at the Battle of Bothwell Bridge, were ship-wrecked on the "Crown" in 1697. They were being transported to the American Colonies. There is a footpath from the parking area.

  15. Churchill Barriers - These four causeways were built after the sinking of the HMS Royal Oak while it lay at harbour in Scapa Flow in October 1939. Barrier No 1 is over 2,000 feet (610 metres) in length. The maximum depth below the highest tide level is 59 feet (18 metres) After the war, a road was built on top of the barriers allowing the south isles of Lamb Holm, Glimps Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay to become part of the main roadway system of Orkney. The area is popular with divers, sea-anglers and also have some nice beaches.

  16. Lamb Holm - Small island off Holm boasting the first Churchill Barrier, the Italian Chapel and now the Orkney Wine Company.

  17. The Italian Chapel

    Italian Chapel - Near St Mary's, on the tiny island of Lamb Holm (connected to the Mainland by the first of the Churchill Barriers) is a unique memorial to 550 Italian Prisoners of War where they were interned in the 1940s. This beautiful little chapel was converted internally from two corrugated iron nissan huts. Open daylight hours daily and free to visit. t: (01856) 781268.

  18. St Mary's Village - A picturesque little village with an esplanade facing south which developed during the herring fishing days. St Mary's is the venue for a variety of water based sports and has an annual regatta in July. It is also the home of the Strond Gallery. t: (01856) 781700.

  19. HMS "Royal Oak" Marker Buoy - In Scapa Flow, almost hidden by the dark moorland across the valley of Deepdale is the green marker buoy for HMS "Royal Oak". Torpedoed with the loss of over 800 lives in 1939, the ship is protected from disturbance, being scheduled as a War Grave. A memorial to HMS "Royal Oak" can be found in St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall.

  20. Minehowe - This Iron Age chamber was discovered in 1946, re-excavated in 2000 and featured on the TV programme 'Time Team'.  It is a mysterious structure comprising of twenty-nine underground steps and two side chambers.  The site is open to the public and finds and displays are on site. t: (01856) 01856 861209.