Papa Westray is one of Orkney’s smaller isles, only about six square miles in extent, and much less hectic than its bigger neighbours in Orkney.
Papay, as the locals know it, is travel writer Bill Bryson’s favourite spot in all of Britain.
The island is home to the Knap of Howar, still regarded as the oldest standing house in Northwest Europe, the first occupants perhaps being in residence 6000 years ago, even before the pyramids were built.
In the Dark Ages the island took on great religious significance and St Boniface kirk (one of the oldest Christian sites in the north of Scotland) was a pilgrimage site and missionary out station. Now lovingly restored it is once again attracting visitors.
Papay is famous for its birds and the North Hill is a top-rated nature reserve. Airborne visitors who land on Westray en route for Papay will experience the shortest scheduled flight in the world - don't blink or you'll miss it (under 2 minutes). While on the island you must visit the farm of Holland and its amazing complex of agricultural buildings adjacent to Holland House which was the seat of the Traill lairds of Papay for three centuries. The farm includes a splendid mill tramp where horses provided the pulling power. One of the farm workers' bothies has been converted into a compact museum displaying a fascinating range of artifacts from the island's history including the parish handcuffs!
Lying roughly on the same latitude as Stavanger in Norway the island is one of the most remote of the Orkney group. Just over four miles long by a mile wide the scenery ranges from impressive cliffs, through wide sandy bays to rolling agricultural land. The cliffs at the northern tip, heavily eroded by the fearsome seas, are steep and densely populated by seabirds. The North Hill (next stop the Arctic Circle!) is a lonely and inspiring location - a must for anyone still with a love of empty spaces and a bit of poetry in their soul.
Off Mull Head right at the northern tip of the isle is the Bore, a fearsome tidal race where the Atlantic crashes into the North Sea - under certain tidal conditions this is a boiling cauldron with waves breaking many fathoms below the surface.
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Beltane -The location of the community co-operative shop, youth hostel and guest house; the heart of the island.
Church & School - St Ann's Church of Scotland and just along the road, the primary school; third building in this complex is School Place, the Free Church school in use until 1877.
The Water Mill – On an isolated headland, this building was last used for milling oats about 100 years ago. Remains of the undershot wheel and millstones can be seen.
St Tredwells Chapel - Dedicated to St Triduana, this chapel was built on top of a broch on a small peninsula and was one of the most visited pilgrimage places in Orkney.
Bronze Age Landmarks - Between the ruined farm of Cuppin and St Tredwell's Loch the remains of a gairsty or treb-dyke, a Bronze Age boundary, can be traced. A second wall in the north of the island has also been identified.
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Bothican - A fine sandy bay close to the New Pier where the ferry from Kirkwall and the link service with Westray calls. In summer the area of machair is rich in orchids and other wild flowers.
Minister's Flag - At one time the minister from Westray had to land here and walk below the high tide line to St Boniface kirk because the Traill laird would not let him on his land. The laird and the kirk were often at loggerheads.
Burnt Mound - Just to the east of Backaskaill Post Office lies a large, grass-covered knoll created by the accumulation of burnt stones which had been heated and immersed in tanks to cook meat.
Holland Farm - Formerly the home of the Traill family, lairds of the island for three centuries, this is perhaps the most extensive traditional steading in Orkney. It features a doo'cot, mill tramp and corn-drying kiln. Spend some time in the folk museum at Holland Farm.
Knap of Howar - Earliest standing house in Northern Europe. These well preserved buildings were occupied by neolithic farmers over 5000 years ago. With intact doorways, stone partitions, and stone benches, the buildings are remarkably well-preserved.
St Boniface Kirk - One of the oldest Christian sites in the North of Scotland. The old kirk, with stonework dating from the 12th century, has been restored in recent years. It is the only church in Orkney to have survived the Reformation intact and to still be in regular use today (apart from the St. Magnus Cathedral).
Munkerhoose - Exposed on the shore below the kirk (see 11) are the remains of a settlement dating from the 6th century BC to the Middle Ages. The name suggests the presence of Monks when the Vikings arrived.
North Hill - A wild and windswept nature reserve managed by the people of Papay in conjunction with the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds and Scottish Natural Heritage. There is a summer warden on this important site.
Fowl Craig - A spectacular cliff nesting site on the east of the island and where the last Great Auk in Britain was killed in 1813. Care is required. Puffins may be seen April-July and occasionally in the first two weeks in August. Back from the cliff edge is Papays famous colony of Primula Scotica.
South of Fowl Craig - As the land levels out to the south of Fowl Craig there is a huge area of sea-turned stones and remains of many small, walled enclosures or crues used for growing vegetables or penning geese
North & South Wick - Lively bays of sparkling white sand and the best locations on the island for viewing the colony of Common and Grey seals which bask on the taings or tidal reefs.
Cott - A number of fishing boats used to be beached here as can be seen from the keel marks on the stone and the unusually tall boat nausts or shelters in the banks.
The Old Pier - The steamer from Kirkwall called here once a week before the New Pier was built in 1970. It is now used by local lobster boats and for access to the Holm of Papay.
Nouster - Excellent examples of boat nousts. These can be traced all round the island shore indicating the presence of hundreds of boats in time gone by.
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The Holm of Papay - Diss o’the Holm - one of the most impressive chambered cairns in Orkney can be seen on this deserted isle. Boat hires are available.
Ferry timetable
Orkney Ferries summer timetable - 152kb
Flight timetable
Loganair summer timetable - 65kb
Island guide
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