Shapinsay
The green and fertile island of Shapinsay lies a pleasant 25-minute crossing by ferry from Kirkwall. The MV Shapinsay, commissioned in 1989 operates a regular service throughout the day. As you sail out of the shelter of Kirkwall Bay, old gun emplacements can be seen along the Point of Carness while on the left lies Thieves Holm. Tradition has it that this little isle was home to banished thieves and witches but now it is the haunt of Cormorants, Kittiwakes and seals.
Crossing The String (the deep water exit from Kirkwall Bay), you’ll see the Victorian turrets of Balfour Castle ahead. To the right is the uninhabited island of Helliar Holm with its automatic lighthouse. Approaching Shapinsay Pier and ro-ro terminal the scene is one of warm stone colours of traditional drystane walls and the pleasing symmetry of the village street. Balfour village was built in the late 18th century as a home for smiths, carpenters and masons employed on the Balfour estate.
Shapinsay is low-lying with its highest point being Ward Hill at 210 feet (64 metres) from where on a clear day a breathtaking view of almost all the other Orkney isles is possible. The island is six miles (10 km) at its longest and in common with most of Orkney the island is made up of Middle Old Red Sandstone. Interesting features of the island are its storm beaches or as they are known locally 'ayres' a name rooted in the Old Norse meaning a strip of sea water completely shut off from the ocean by narrow necks of land. Look for these at Vasa Loch, Lairo Water and for the natural process near completion at the Ouse.
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Balfour Castle - The most northerly castle hotel in the world!
This Victorian castle was built around the existing house of Cliffdale and was home to the Balfours. It is complete with castellated tower, corner turrets, crowstep gables and large picture windows. Originally it had 12 outside doors, 52 rooms and 365 window panes. The Balfour family originated in Fife and the foundation of the Balfour estate in Orkney was by gift of church land to Gilbert Balfour in a charter from the bishop of Orkney in 1560. By 1790 the Balfours were on the farm at Elwick and owned a large part of the island. Balfours occupied the caste until David Hubert Ligonier Balfour died in 1961 leaving no heirs. He had already sold the 830 acre farm of Balfour Mains to the Zawadzki family and on his death they also acquired the castle. -
The Douche - A salt water shower topped with a dovecot.
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Balfour Village - Formerly called Shoreside it was built in the late 1700s as a home for workers on the Balfour estate. -
The Smithy - Originally the village smithy with a sail loft above. Now it is home to the heritage centre, craft shop and cafe.
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The Gatehouse - Former estate entrance to Balfour Castle and residence of the gatekeeper.
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Gas House - Balfour installed a gasworks in about 1856 to illuminate the Castle and village. The circular stone tower remains near the school. It incorporates some stones taken from Notland castle in Westray.
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School - Community Centre - Playing Fields - Childrens' Playground
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Elwick Mill - One of the largest water-powered grinding mills in Orkney, although no longer in operation. There is a pottery workshop and studio in the nearby old mill.
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Mill Dam, RSPB Reserve - A hide overlooks this wetland reserve giving spectacular views. The reserve is home to many breeding birds including pintails and other ducks, waders, black headed gulls and the secretive water rail. In winter hundreds of ducks are Joined by whooper swans and greylag geese.
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Helliar Holm - Uninhabited island with automatic lighthouse. Contains broch, chapel site and cairn.
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Old Church & Kirkyard - First church on the site dated from 1559. Present building was constructed in 1802 and the churchyard contains the Balfour family burial site.
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Bay of Sandgarth - Sandy beach.
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Interesting Walk - Including views of ruins, bird life and rock formations such as the 'Foot of Shapinsay'.
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Standing Stone - The Mor Stein stands 3m high and it is said to have landed after being thrown by a giant from the Mainland at his fleeing wife.
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Castle Bloody - Chambered Cairn; origin of name unknown. Stands on Shapinsay's only remaining heather moorland, an ideal site for birds and wildlife
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Linton Chapel - Probably dates from 12th century. It's said that a lintel from the chapel was used in building a byre on a nearby farm in the early 1900s. The lintel was promptly returned when two of the farmer's cattle were discovered hanged in the byre.
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Broch of Burroughston - This broch typically faces the sea and is surrounded by good agricultural land. An impressive ditch and rampart enclose a settlement on the shore side. Good spot for viewing seals.
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Quhoime - Birthplace of American writer Washington Irving's father.
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Odin's Stone - This large black stone (6'6"x4' 6") is noticeably different from surrounding stones on the beach. Origin unknown but traditionally associated with Norse god 'Odin' or ‘Woden'.
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Lairo Water and the Ouse - Examples of sea water enclosed by 'ayres'. Lairo Water is a good place to see wildfowl in winter and at The Ouse you can see waders from mid July and all winter. Easily accessible.
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The Gait - Good walk. Bird life and seals easily visible.
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Gun Emplacements - Former battery used in World War II.
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Vasa Loch - Third example of water enclosed by an 'ayre'. Good site for birdwatching.
Ferry timetable
Orkney Ferries Winter/Spring Timetable 28 September 2009 until 1 May 2010 - 85kb
Orkney Ferries Spring/Summer Timetable 2nd May 2010 until 26th Sept 2010 - 89kb
Download the island guide here - 277kb