West Mainland

The West Mainland of Orkney can offer the visitor a richness and variety of attractions that few other places can match. Here you will find the parishes of Birsay, Evie, Firth, Harray, Orphir, Rendall, Sandwick and Stenness and the villages of Dounby and Finstown.

Running through the rich farm land, there is also hill and moorland scenery to compare favourably with anywhere else in Britain. Here, there is a wide variety of plant and birdlife of interest to naturalists and ornithologists from many parts of the world. Spectacular cliff scenery along the Atlantic coastline, again full of birdlife during the summer months, contrasts with sheltered sandy bays -ideal for artists, photographers, walkers and sightseers. Well-preserved prehistoric settlements provide a stark reminder that early settlers of these islands lived in circumstances differing greatly from today's inhabitants who live in very up-to-date dwellings. The West Mainland also contains some of the best-known wild brown trout fishing lochs in Northern Scotland.

1. Brough of Birsay – Cross the causeway at low tide to this tidal island where you will find the remains of both Pictish and Norse settlements, including St. Peter's Kirk.  A walk to the far side of the Brough brings you to the lighthouse and cliff face.  This is a good place for watching migratory birds and a chance to see puffins (May-July). Keep your eyes peeled for whales off the shore and for the popular Groatie Buckies (cowrie shells).  Get tide times from the Visitor Information Centre.

2. St Magnus Church - The present church was built in 1760 and replaced and earlier church that had stood there from 1664.  It is believed that this was also the site of the 1064 church where St. Magnus was interred after being murdered by his cousin Haakon in 1116.  His remains are now housed in St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall.  In summer the Church is open daily, but in winter the key is available from the nearby shop, Palace Stores.

3. Earl's Palace - The ruins are in the centre of The Palace village of Birsay and are kept by Historic Scotland.  The palace was built in the late 16th century by 'Black Patie' - the unpopular Earl Robert Stewart.  The site is open all year and free to visit.  t: (01856) 721205  www.historic-scotland.gov.uk

4. Boardhouse Mill - The last surviving example of a working watermill in Orkney.  The mill still produces traditional beremeal and the mill is open to visitors from May-September each year.  Opening hours are 10am-1pm and 2-5pm.  Free entry/donation.  t: (01856) 721439.

5. Stone o' Quoybune - A standing stone which folk-lore says went to the loch every New Year's - morning for a drink - not a bad idea, even today!

6. Marwick Head - Walk from the car park up to the stone-built memorial commemorating the loss of HMS Hampshire, which sank here in mysterious circumstances with the loss of all but 12 men, including Lord Kitchener of Khartoum, Minister of War, reputed to be on a secret mission to Russia. This is a great spot for birdwatching during the breeding months and the best place in the mainland for sighting puffins.

7. Bay of Skaill – Large sandy beach below Skara Brae.  Guaranteed to be busy with sandcastle builders and dog walkers on a nice summer day, but otherwise you could be lucky enough to have it to yourself.

8. Skara Brae – This is an incredibly well preserved stone village containing an intricate maze of dwellings, with stone beds, lintels and cupboards all intact, and dates back some 5,000 years. The site was revealed in 1850 by a violent storm and is now one of the most famous Neolithic sites in Northern Europe.  The site has an excellent visitor centre with a shop and cafe and is open daily.  t: (01856) 841815      www.historic-scotland.gov.uk

9. Hole o' Rowe – Visible from the Bay of Skaill, the Hole o' Row is a cave worn right through the headland, which causes the sea to break through the hole in dramatic style in rough weather.

10. St Peter’s Kirk  -Situated at the north end of the Bay of Skaill is St. Peter's Kirk, dating back to 1837.  Visitors are welcome April - October, 10am- 6pm.

11. Orkney Brewery – Located at the old school in Quoyloo, the brewery makes popular Orkney ales including the award wining Dark Island. The brewery plan to open a new visitor centre for 2010.  t: (01667) 404555   www.orkneybrewery.co.uk

12. Yesnaby - Yesnaby offers some spectacular scenery of cliffs, stacks (including the Castle of Yesnaby) and geos.  Also to be found here is the rare plant species of Primula Scotica, which only exists in the most northern parts of Scotland.

13. Skipi Geo and Sandgeo - Recently restored fishermen's huts are situated along these coastlines.

14. Longaglebe Geo - A deep gorge eroded by the sea, 200 metres inwards.

15. Kirbuster Farm Museum - A well-kept example of an early 19th century farmhouse and steading, with Orkney's last peat-fired central hearth, stone neuk beds and collection of farm utensils of yesteryear.  The museum is free to visit and is open March - October. Mon-Sat 10.30am-1pm, 2-5pm. Sun 12-5pm. t (01856) 771268.

16. Dounby - A village settlement where the parishes of Birsay, Harray and Sandwick meet.  Dounby has several shops and plenty of other services to offer.

17. Burgar Hill - Site of several aero generators, the largest with a diameter of 50 metres and a capacity of three megawatts.

18. The Roost - Often wild strait separating Evie from the island of Eynhallow.

19. Mill of Harray - 19th century meal mill which, before 1875, had no drying kiln; farmers had to dry their own oats and barley before taking it to be milled.

20. Click Mill - Another 19th century mill thats name comes from its operation sounds.  Its style is derived from the earlier Norse mills and at one time it would have produced enough flour for all of Dounby.  The mill is free to visit and open all year round. 

21. Corrigall Farm Museum - The farm offers the visitor an insight into Orkney farming from as early as the 18th century at this farmstead.  The site includes a peat fire, livestock, a range of horse powered instruments, a shop and toilets.  Free to visit and open March-October, Mon-Sat 10.30am-1pm, 2-5pm and Sun 12-5pm. t: (01856) 771411.

22. Quoyer Viewpoint - An ideal stopping place down at the loch for panoramic views of the Harray and Stenness Lochs, the Ring of Brodgar and the Hills of Hoy in the distance.

23. Aikerness Beach - Probably the longest stretch of sandy beach in the West Mainland -perfect for bathing, picnics or hunting for shells, especially Groatie Buckies.

24. Broch of Gurness - The most impressive and best surviving example of a broch in the Orkney mainland.  The broch stands in the centre of a small stone village surrounded by houses and ramparts.  It was firstly home to the Picts in the 1st century BC and was later occupied by the Vikings till around the 9th century.  Visitors are welcome in the summer months to a charge.  Open dails April-September 9.30am-12.30pm, 1.30-5pm.  October Sat-Wed 9.30am-4.30pm. t: (01856) 751414.  www.historic-scotland.gov.uk.

25. Tingwall Ferry Terminal - Provides a dail ferry link with Rousay, Egilsay and Wyre. There is also evidence of another broch here.

26. Rendall Doocot - This is a 17th century pigeon home situated at the Hall of Rendall.  This recently restored doocot is the only one of its kind in Orkney.

27. Finstown - The village in the Parish of Firth is named after the Irish soldier David Phin, who came to Orkney in 1811 after the Napoleonic Wars.  He opened an inn named the Toddy Hole, which is the present day Pomona Inn.  It is still the only pub in the village which is now the Orkney mainlan's third largest settlement after Kirkwall and Stromness.

28. Old Mill - No longer in use, but the machinery dating from the early 19th century is still there, including the overshot wheel which provided the power.  The mill is currently being renovated.

29. Langalour - Notable 19th century farm, complete with neuk beds - originally a longhouse, shared by family and animals.

30. Ingashowe Broch - Human remains and red deer bones were found when it was excavated. Inhabited 500-60 BC.

31. Rennibister Earth House – Located below Wideford Hill, remains of a Neolithic House dating from 3900BC, similar to Knap of Howar on Papay.

32. Brig o' Waithe – The Brig crosses the mouth of the Loch of Stenness at The Bush and is a favourite sea trout fishing location.  It is also the site of the first civilian deathin Britain during the Second World War when it was bombed by a German plane.

33. Unstan Cairn Chambered tomb – this cairn in located beside the Stenness Loch and was excavated in 1884.  The chamber is divided by large flagstone in which crouched skeletons were found.  The tomb lends its name to Unstan Ware- a variety of Neolithic pottery as so much of it was found here during excavation.  The pottery has also been found at various other archaeological sites in Orkney.

34. Ring of Brodgar – One of the finest stone circles in the world. The stone ring was built in a true circle, 104 metres wide and originally contained sixty megaliths; today only twenty-seven of these stones remain.  Part of Orkney's World Heritage Site, they have become an iconic part of Orkney's identity.  Free walks around the site are provided by Historic Scotland rangers.

35. Barnhouse Village - Situated on the shore of Harray Loch, and accessed from the Standing Stones of Stenness, Barnhouse is a stone age village.  It is similar to Skara Brae, but has much less of the structure surviving.  Barnhouse is an open site which is free to visit.

36. Standing Stones of Stenness - One of the most famous sites in Orkney, the stones make up a a small circle dating from the third millennium BC.  It originally consisted of twelve stones, and The Watchstone and Barnhouse stone are also nearby.

37. Tormiston Mill - Refurbished mill where tickets for Maeshowe are purchased.  The mill is also home to a good shop. Unfortunately buses, coaches and campervans cannot park at the mill.

38. Maeshowe - The finest chambered tomb in Western Europe. Built before 2700 BC, it was raided by the Vikings in the mid-12th century and plundered of its 'treasures'.  Maeshowe is interesting because of the various runic inscriptions carved into the walls.  This is one of the best known collections and includes the Maeshowe Dragon - a very well known Orkney icon.  During the winter solstice every year the sun shines down the long entrance passage and lights up the back wall.  This occurence has become so celebrated that it can even be witnessed on the internet at www.maeshowe.co.uk.  Maeshowe is managed by Historic Scotland and offers hourly tours.  Open 9.30-5pm in the summer months, 9.30-4pm in the winter. t: (01856) 761606.

39. Buckle's Toor - Small tower built last century by a local lad while he herded sheep on the hillside.

40. Binscarth – Binscarth Wood is Orkney’s largest woodland area. There is a lovely walk through the woods and past Wasdale loch.  The map can be downloaded from www.visitorkney.com/walking.

41. Cuween Chambered Cairn - Built around 2800-2000 BC. When it was entered in 1901, twenty-four dog skulls were found, thought to be tribal emblems of the stone-age builders.

42. Site of Battle of Summerdale - Where the last pitched battle in Orkney was fought in 1528. The army of King James V, led by the Earl of Caithness, was defeated by the islanders who were rebelling against taxes and feudalism.

43. Ward Hill - The highest point on the Orkney mainland - 268 metres. Great views of Scapa Flow and Hoy as well as Stromness and the West Mainland.

44. Houton - This is the departure point of the car ferry to Hoy (Lyness) and Flotta.

45. St Nicholas Round Kirk and Orkneyinga Saga Centre – The centre in the Orphir church yard tells the story of the Norse Earls of Orkney by way of interpretation boards and an audiovisual display.  It is free to visit and open daily.  The Orphir Round Kirk was built in the late 11th or early 12th century and is the only remains of a circular church in Scotland.  It is believed to have been built by Earl Haakon. There is also a nice walk here along the shore, with good views out to Flotta and Hoy.

46. Earl's Bu - The remains of a Norse farmstead, at one time home to some of the Norse Earls who were so important in Orkney's history.

47. Waulkmill - A beautiful sheltered shallow inlet with stunning sandy beach. This beach was voted Orkney best Kept Beach in 2006. Toilet facilities available above the beach.  Please note that there are steps down to the beach so it may not be suitable for buggies and wheelchairs.